Assisi Travel Guide: Saints, Hilltop Views, and Medieval Adventures

After a 3-years break from our last trip to Assisi, we returned this time for a longer and much more adventurous stay.

Where is Assisi? Assisi is a hill town in central Italy’s Umbria region, the Province of Perugia. Assisi was the home of several saints including St Francis of Assisi. Catholics around the world go on a pilgrimage to Assisi for a quiet time to reflect on the life of St Francis of evangelical zeal, consecration to poverty, charity and personal charism which drew thousands of followers.

My favorite way to Assisi is by train. Assisi station is situated in Santa Maria degli Angeli, a small village town, approximately 6km to Piazza of Assisi. Don’t be fooled by the height of the hill and spend on taxi. There are local buses available and they are extremely tourist-friendly.

We ditched taxi for buses and ditched hotels for a well-equipped apartment. We bought our tickets from the tobacco store and boarded the bus for Assisi.

The apartment, located at the top floor of an ancient building is located along Via S. Rufino. The upper floors of most buildings is only accessible by stairs. The climb is muscle-building when lunging the luggage and backpack at the same time over each flight of steps trying hard not to ruin the marble.

Like the Irish folklore speaks “a pot of gold hidden by leprechauns at the rainbow’s end”. Trust me when I say the view was worth the effort and the apartment was spacious and lovely.

Getting there: Arrive by Train at Assisi station. Upon entering the station building, turn right to La Bella Stazione. La Bella Stazione is a cafe within the Station building. Approach the counter and purchase Local bus tickets from this store for a bus ride to the center of Assisi with a validity of whole day. If you are staying in Assisi hilltop, a booklet of tickets can be purchased ahead. Linea C will take you from the Stazione to Largo Properzio, 1min walk to the historic gate, Porta Nuova. For updates on bus services to various part of the hilltop Assisi, please access Umbria mobilita official site. Precaution when walking through the Gate as this is a one-way traffic road. Traffic goes in one direction – Vehicles enter through Porta Nuova to the City Center.

St. Francis of Assisi founded the Franciscan religious order in the town and together with St. Clare found the Poor Sisters. The hilltop town of Assisi has historic and beautiful churches which we rushed through to visit during our previous trip. This visit though extended, we were selective but we still made time to attend mass. (visit San Francesco for updated schedules of Masses)

Notable Changes in Assisi or perhaps we have not noticed –

  • The location where St Francis was locked up by his father

Most of the rosaries sold in Assisi have a “T” instead of the cross. No, the rosary is not damaged or sub-quality. “T” in Assisi stands for “Tau”. “Tau” is a word in Hebrew meaning Salvation. The TAU is the sign with which St Francis loves signing his letters and blessings.

  • Butcher and grocery shops available

Our previous visit, I doubt we passed any butcher or grocery shops in the hilltop village. We were planning to take a bus down to Santa Maria degli Angeli to buy food back. However, this time we found a butcher, 2 grocery shops (rather than grocery/souvenir shops) and a vegetable store.

Assisi as a Europe Tour stop

On our return from venturing Santa Maria degli Angeli as we were walking towards Porta Nuova, we hear the loud roar of engine.

What could it be?

Surprise to see the medieval hilltop of Assisi playing host as a stopover for high-speed cars of Europe Tour. High-speed cars enthusiasts, this is your style of enjoying Assisi by negotiating the elevating winding roads.

Different form of Exploration

The popularity of Assisi has grown since our last visit. Assisi is no longer an isolated hilltop village with higher frequency of local buses and increasing number of visitors. The increase of visitors also brings along exhibitors and adventurers.

  • Maria

Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Rose is an exhibition place for the simple model of Mary. The artist has an amazing vision of creating the figure of Mary and in only one figure, there are 5 different images of Mary.

How to get there: From the Fountain located at the City Centre, walk up the stairs of Vicolo Tiberio d’Assisi. Arrive at the alley of Vicolo della Fortezza t the top of the stairs and turn left. At the end of Vicolo della Fortezza turn right where the alley meets Via Santa Maria, della Rose. Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Rose is on the left side. See map for reference. Download Maria for more details of the exhibition.

  • Rocca Maggiore

At the tip of hilltop Assisi stands a large, dramatic medieval fortress, Rocca Maggiore. Fee payable for grounds within the fortress. Grounds outside the fortress is free to all if you can make the climb up 74m elevation. If you do ever make it up, the view is beautiful.

Walking Direction: From Fontanella, head up the stairs of Vicolo Tiberio d’Assisi then turn left on Vicolo Tiberio d’Assisi. At the junction turn right onto Via Capobove and past Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Rose. Turn left at the first flight of stairs, Via Santa Maria delle Rose. Turn left at the top of the stairs to Via Giovanni Jorgensen and to the end of the alley continue onto Via della Rocca. To access the fortress, visit this link for updated information.

Assisi by night

Years ago when I did night photography in Assisi, I recall the streets were quiet and quite deserted that there was rarely more than 10 person on sight. In addition, as I did not have access to any GPS devices, I was hesitant to venture.

Having had my siesta, I was pretty much energized to do my walk with my GPS, camera and tripod.

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