We spent our first evening of the Camino at Casa Morgade, a charming accommodation conveniently located along the Camino route.
We landed a comfortable triple room with our own bathroom, and our window looks right out at the private entrance. Plus, breakfast is included with our room! Casa Morgade has a killer rating of 9.2/10 – pilgrims are buzzing in for a night’s stay and for their amazing breakfast quality.
Honestly, it has one of those views that make getting up early totally worth it! The outdoor dining area provides a spectacular view of the valley below.
Before starting your Camino, don’t forget to bring your passport to the front counter and ask for a credential stamp as you return your room keys. The owner will be delighted to place a stamp and also wish you “Buen camino“.
Day 2, the average distance between Morgade and Portomarin is approximately 9,1km with altitude of 663m descending to 348m.
| From start | destination |
|---|---|
| 0.6km 1,1km 1,9km 3,3km 4km 5,6km 6,9km 9,1km | Capilla de Santa Mariña A Pena As Rozas Moimentos Mercadoiro A Parrocha Vilacha Portomarin |
Chapel of Saint Marina (Capilla de Santa Mariña) is located 600m from Casa Morgade along the Camino route. This tiny chapel is furnished only with an altar. It is unclear if this chapel will be open 24 hours daily as the door to the tiny building has a latch.
I have to say that the walk to Ferreiros was absolutely fantastic! The winding path meanders beautifully through stunning farmland on both sides. Looking afar, the majestic pine trees that line the meadow create a peaceful and picturesque view that truly uplifts the spirit.
If anyone reading and following my journey, you would have guessed it right. The person walking very much ahead of me was my mother. She was eighty-two when she led me to walk the Camino and believe it that she was always ahead of me.
Nature lovers, check out the flora along the route! The colors are so captivating and most of the shapes are very unique. I am not always attracted to flowers or plants but somehow, what I see along the route captured my attention. And no, I wasn’t paying too much attention that would land myself in puddles of water or piles of cow dung!
On this day, I question my grasp of this journey as I struggle to find my footing; leaving Morgade felt more like a leap into the unknown than a farewell, leaving me skeptical about that bittersweet emotion.
Was venturing into the dense forest really the best choice for us all? I mean, how could it not be when the Camino markers are practically our GPS, pointing us in the right direction—unless, of course, they decide to play a game of hide and seek!
At Ferreiros, looking up at the inviting balcony of Albergue-Restaurante Casa Cruceiro de Ferreiros, I felt empathy for those relaxing there. I wanted a break, but I couldn’t stop because my mother was determined to keep moving. In that moment, I wished for longer legs to keep up with her pace.
I just snagged my second stamp of the day at A Pena, and it felt truly special! The owner has thoughtfully put up a sign on the Camino marker, inviting travelers to stop by for a credential stamp at his charming place. It’s a welcoming spot, even though there’s no one at the desk—just the credential stamp waiting for us and a sweet cardboard box for anyone wishing to leave a small token of appreciation.
The journey out of As Rozas feels like bootcamp—a real test of resilience. Pilgrims must accept the challenge and forget about keeping their shoes clean, as puddles cover much of the path. This tough experience builds strength and camaraderie.
Remember the saying, “There is a pot of gold at the end of the rainbow”? A kind villager in A Parroocha has shown us that it’s true, and that love is stronger than greed, bringing joy to our hearts.
The owner of this building has set up tables and chairs under a shelter, making a welcoming space for everyone. There is a nice selection of fresh fruits, cookies, bread, butter, and jam for anyone passing by. A variety of coffee, creamer, tea, milo, and fruit juices ensures there’s something for all tastes. A large bottle of water and a kettle provide warmth and hydration, with disposable cups and napkins available for convenience. Surprisingly, no one is here to manage this area, but a sign on the door invites donations, highlighting a spirit of community and care.
When departing from the village of Vilacha, choose wisely. Both routes will bring you to Portomarin. The distance differs by 100 metres. The Camino Principal or Main way is also the Historic way which Saint James walked. The Camino Alternativo or Alternative way is obviously a new route to Portomarin.
We figured since we were here, it made sense to check out what Saint James went through. So, we decided to take the Historic route.
The beginning of the route was just like any other, filled with anticipation and wonder. As the path leads deeper into the dense forest, the peaceful farmlands gracefully fade behind the high stone fences as the path narrows and becomes increasingly slippery. We continued the journey with the stone fences building so high that we can hardly see anything except the sky directly above through the branches of the towering trees.
As we pushed on, the terrain became moderately inclined as the path narrowed further. The ground became increasingly slippery and concaved that we had to walk behind one another.
The path got narrower and the ground sloped down unevenly, so we had to crouch to avoid slipping. When we got out of the forest, we saw a small village. We made it! Portomarin is just ahead!
Tip:
- Just crouch down and take your time going down the slope. Keep your hands free in case you want to grab onto the sides while you make your way down!
- Exercise caution when exiting the slop, as you will encounter a roadway for vehicles.
When the tide is low, pilgrims will be able to spot Ponte Vella (Bridge Vella) when crossing the Miño River reservoir. Ponte Vella is a medieval footbridge built around the 1st century AD under Emperor Augustus.
Ponte Nova (New Bridge) is a modern road and pedestrian bridge stretching across the Miño River reservoir from San Pedro to Portomarin.
Tip
If it is windy when you are at the opposite side of Portomarin, make sure you tighten everything you have including your hat before you start crossing the bridge unless you want to see your hat going for a dive into the Reservoir.
It’s completely okay to pause here for a breather before you tackle the stairs—most pilgrims do, and for good reason. The walk across the bridge is gentle and beautiful, and when you finally see this steep staircase, that little rest can feel almost essential. If stairs are tough for you, you’re not alone—take your time, stop when you need to, turn around every so often, and let yourself really soak in the view. However long it takes you, the view from the top will feel all the more meaningful for the effort you put in.